Returning from Thailand!!!
February 3, 2012
I considered many ways to write this story – perhaps a traditional chronological memoir would be easiest (though maybe a little boring). I also contemplated giving you a bulleted list of everything I did on each day of my 10-day vacation, to keep it simple. Alas, I’ve decided to write my Top Ten Memories of Thailand, so it’s a list, plus a story.
#1 Riding an Elephant
Hands-down, my favorite memory of Thailand is riding an elephant through the jungle. On our first day in Khao Sok, the Treehouse Lodge where Elizabeth and I stayed helped us to arrange an “Elephant Trek” and drove us to the elephant plantation, about 15 minutes down a winding road through the mountains. When we emerged from beneath the trees into a clearing, we saw elephants stomping around the dirt and wading through the stream. Green hills and palm trees stood in the distance, framed by fields of thick grass. From far away, the elephants looked like everything I’d ever seen in movies or books, but up close they were much more wrinkly, their skin leathery and tough.

Elephant ride in the trees.
We climbed up to a wooden platform where we watched tourists step aboard their elephants’ backs, waiting for our turn. The elephant that Elizabeth and I rode was smaller, and had pink, spotted birthmarks on her back and ears. At first we sat on the bench that was harnessed to her middle, but then our mahout prompted us to slide forward, off the seat, and ride “bare-back,” with our legs wrapped around the elephant’s neck. Though they look smooth, elephants actually have thick, coarse, black hairs rising out of their rough skin, about an inch apart and very prickly.
The path we rode along was red dirt, dusty in some places and muddy in others, and mostly very narrow. The majority of our trek was through a moving stream, and early in the journey it began to rain hard – it was indeed a rain forest. That didn’t stop our mahout from taking photos and making us “rain hats” out of broad jungle leaves. After an hour or so, we dismounted and took a very short hike to a small waterfall, and then rode our elephant back through the trees. Among my most lasting images of the ride is the tiny, muddy pathway that the huge elephant feet maneuvered so meticulously with a gentle swaying. From now on I’m only visiting countries where I can ride an elephant.
# 2 Cruising the Motorbike Through the Hills of Phuket
This was certainly the vacation of “Trying New Things,” and the soundtrack was “AHHHHH!” My driving skills are usually limited to cars and go-karts, and the bartender at our hostel and warned us NOT to rent a motorbike, laughing and telling me I’d be nuts to drive in the island traffic. Personally, I think he underestimated my will to succeed.

Ready to Ride.
Elizabeth and I rented one bike to share, and we both took a “test-drive” to make sure we could brake and accelerate properly. When it was my turn to drive – on the LEFT side of the road, I’ll have you know – I realized how terrible I was at balancing the bike, especially with a person sitting behind me! When I put my feet down, my short legs struggled to hold the weight of the bike upright; but once I started driving, it was easier, and I cried “Whheeeeee!!!!!” as we cruised up and down the hills across the island. I drove southbound along the cliffs, scanning the beaches below, making Elizabeth nervous with my constant chatter. I’ll admit, I did almost crash the bike once or twice, but I was very diligent about screaming, “Watch out!! Get out of the way! Inexperienced driver coming through!” The bike also had a horn, which proved useful after dark when we were finding our way back to town. If I ever relocated to a beach town or an island, I’ll definitely consider buying a motorbike, or at least bicycle to get around.
#3 Hiking/Running (screaming) Out of the Jungle Another “AHHHH!” story: Our Jungle Tree House was offering guided jungle treks for around 1200 Baht, and I thought that was silly – I’ve literally been hiking since I’ve been in the womb (thanks Mom). Therefore, Elizabeth and I decided to take an “Unguided Trek” through the jungle…
Things went well for the first few hours… we had a fairly unreliable map, but the trails were wide and clearly marked. Each time we heard a rustle in the bushes, it turned out to be a strange, red-headed lizard that resembled those spitting dinosaurs from Jurassic Park, or a large bug we named “Crazy Bug.” Our destination was a natural swimming hole called Wang Yao, which the map claimed to be “large and very beautiful,” and when the signs indicated we were near, Elizabeth and I turned off the path and followed the sound of rushing water.

The Red-Headed Dinosaur
We took a short break in a broad clearing, and then began the .5 km stretch to the swimming pool – but as I stepped onto the boulders constituting the path, a skinny, brown snake slithered in front of me and I let go a scream that commenced the terrifying start to what should hereby be known as the “Amazing Race.”
As Elizabeth attempted to calm me, a family of three walked toward us and kindly warned us of a giant spider hanging on its web from a fallen log, blocking the trail ahead. The man held up his hands to indicate the size of the spider, about as big as a softball. He also reminded us to keep moving, so the leeches wouldn’t hook onto our legs. Then Elizabeth – the strong one – began to panic, but we made the decision to continue with our heads down, not looking at anything but our footsteps, convincing ourselves that we were on an exclusive episode of “The Amazing Race.” As we neared the source of water, the trees grew thicker and the path thinner, burying us in a canopy of darkness, and we continued to murmur to each other, “Amazing Race, Amazing Race, don’t look up, just keep going, there’s a camera crew right behind us…”
When we broke through the vines and saw that the “beautiful pool” was just another hole of brown water, Elizabeth glanced down and found a leech (her third one) biting her ankle and then we both freaked out – we were squealing and stomping our feet, making a beeline for the trail that seemed tangled in the undergrowth. This is the part where we literally RAN out of the jungle, screaming “Amazing Race, Amazing Race” the whole time.
Elizabeth went ahead of me – falling twice and tearing up her knee so that she was a canvas of mud and blood – and we still had to pass under the mammoth poisonous spider again. When we reached the clearing, I paused for a minute to clean the crusty dirt from my calves, and when Elizabeth started shouting to me, I hurried up. This is the worst part – I trotted up the rocks where we had seen the snake, and as I made it out of the trees, I saw A DINOSAUR. Okay, not really, but I thought it was a dinosaur, and I screamed, “AHHHH! A dinosaur!!!” It was about 2 feet long, plus a long tail, army-green and brown, with stubby feet, and it waddled. Elizabeth didn’t see it, so the whole way back I tried to describe it to my dubious friend. “It was fatter than my thigh! And it waddled – it was a big, waddling, lizard-snake-dinosaur!! I swear!”
Luckily for us, we both made it – alive – out of the jungle, and we also saw a monkey in the trees. Also luckily, Elizabeth had WiFi on her phone, so she pulled up GoogleImages and handed her phone to me: “Okay Andrea. Show me what you saw.” See below for an image of the Water-Monitor Lizard, found in Asia and the zoo.

Water-Monitor Lizard
#4 Watching the Parasailers Cast-Off from the Beach

Parasailing
While I lounged in my chair on Patong Beach, one of the local parasailing businesses was launching tourists into the sky a mere ten feet away in the sand. The pasty tourists were harnessed and clipped to a damp parachute behind a coil of worn rope, and a Thai local would say, “One, two, three, running okay?” Within 15 seconds, the tourist was sprinting toward the surf, the rope was pulled taut, and then the person was flying through the air against a clean blue background.
#5 Exploring Bangkok on Foot
This is when I really regret losing my camera, because while this wasn’t my Number One moment of the trip, there is really no way to recall everything that I saw and photographed that day… Still, the emotions are what matter most, and there is no emotion better than feeling to free to wander without searching. True, I did have a map, but we took no specific route and there was no time limit or fear of getting lost. Along the way we visited the Grand Palace where we had to borrow traditional wrap-around skirts in order to enter the grounds. I saw a high-school marching band practicing in a local city park. Elizabeth and I passed through a flower market on our way to the Chao Phraya River, and we rode a “River Taxi” that bucked and lurched in the choppy water. There is a significant sense of gratification when you somehow find your way through a novel situation, without giving in or giving up.
#6 Partying with the Lady-Boys on BangLa Road
Lady-Boys are… well, we’re not really sure what they are… in short, they were born male and now are not, with different shades of gray and plastic.

Lady-Boy dancer on BangLa Road.
In any case, Patong Beach’s BangLa Road fascinated us with scores of dance music, drinks served in sand buckets, interesting entertainment, and very little clothing.
#7 Peering Through Snorkel Goggles in the Clear water on Nai Harn Beach
I consider myself a mountain lover rather than a beach girl, but it’s been a while since I’ve gone swimming in such clear water, so I must count this experience in my Top-10. Nai Harn beach certainly isn’t one of the “best,” according to Thailand’s standards, but next to the Jersey Shore and freezing Rye Beach in New Hampshire, Nai Harn is amazing. My favorite thing was the way the white sand was carved into ripples on the ocean floor, and I’ll hold onto that image until the next time I visit a tropical island. I did some research to find out where exactly I was swimming – was it the Pacific? The Indian Ocean? In fact, there is a body of water called the Andaman Sea (or the Burma Sea) that borders the Eastern coast of Thailand, and, according to Wikipedia, is technically a part of the Indian Ocean. Geography is much more interesting when you’re swimming in it.

Nai Harn Beach
#8 Waking Up in the Foggy Jungle with the Windows of the Train Wide Open We took an overnight train from Bangkok to the small town of Surat Thani, and the sleeper cars were completely booked, so we had to ride in the regular coach section. Keep in mind, this is NOT Amtrak in America. Our car looked like something out of the 1920’s, mustard yellow on the inside and window panes with chipped blue paint. I thought for sure the train people would shut the windows once we started moving, but nobody did, and I was free to hang my head out the whole way across the country if I wanted too. Of course, I realized soon enough that trains were screaming past us on both sides, and I like my head attached to my body, so I was careful.
I slept soundly for about 2 hours right before dawn, and when I awoke, I was surrounded by green on both sides of the train – a color I haven’t seen much of since living in Shanghai. There was a heavy fog cloaking the tropical palm trees, and white cows stood like ghosts as we crawled toward town. A train in Thailand probably isn’t the best overnight accommodation in the world, but I can now claim it as one of the strangest places I’ve woken up in.
#9 Breathing the Air When I visited America last October, I was stunned at how clean the air was, and how blue the sky could be. We don’t have those luxuries in Shanghai. So this trip to Thailand was exactly what I needed to remind me that fresh air does exist in the world; even the rain in Thailand felt good on my skin. Don’t take nice weather for granted.
#10 Enjoying a Bagel with Cream Cheese Seriously. There are no bagels in Shanghai, not good, toasted ones with cream cheese. There was an Au Bon Pain in Phuket, and when I discovered it, it felt like heaven.
Thailand is called the “Land of Smiles,” because there are 13 different types of “Yin,” or “smile” in Thailand, all of which are used as a form of communication. The Thai people are extremely friendly and will almost certainly greet you with a smile, every time. I’ve visited many places in the world that I have no interest in seeing again, but Thailand is definitely a location on the map that I’ll circle, highlight, and Post-it for my future journeys.